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Post by Richard on Feb 27, 2010 15:32:28 GMT -7
This is my Z06 that was taken to an alignment shop and then test driven afterwards, ending up wrapped around a tree. I'm starting a project to repair it. 'going to have pull the engine and the whole front suspension so that the frame can be straighten to original specs. I'll probably have to replace the front half of the left frame rail. Last fall at SEMA, I visited the Mitchell booth in the autobody repair section. They were good enough to provide me with all the specs for straightening the frame. Here is the car: And the damage:
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Post by tachout on Feb 27, 2010 15:37:05 GMT -7
Looks like you have some work ahead of you there.
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Post by Richard on Mar 1, 2010 18:14:11 GMT -7
Trying to figure out how to make a special frame to hold the engine. BTW, did you see the special tool I made to compress the spring for removal?
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Post by Crossfire84 on Mar 1, 2010 20:55:21 GMT -7
Trying to figure out how to make a special frame to hold the engine. BTW, did you see the special tool I made to compress the spring for removal? BTW, did you see the special tool I made to compress the spring for removal? NOTHING NEEDED TO BE MADE, THE WEIGHT OF THE CAR IS ALL YOU NEED TO COMPRESS THE SPRING. RACE ON!!!
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Post by Richard on Mar 1, 2010 22:33:26 GMT -7
Using the weight of the car works ok if you're working on the ground. It's less desirable if your car is on a lift. But, as far as I'm concerned, it's far inferior to having the right tool. Just last Saturday, I put a guy's 2004 Z06 on my lift, and lowered his front suspension in about 5 minutes. It took about 3 minutes to install the tool, and then I was able to turn his bolts with my fingers.
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Post by Crossfire84 on Mar 2, 2010 7:10:11 GMT -7
Using the weight of the car works ok if you're working on the ground. It's less desirable if your car is on a lift. But, as far as I'm concerned, it's far inferior to having the right tool. Just last Saturday, I put a guy's 2004 Z06 on my lift, and lowered his front suspension in about 5 minutes. It took about 3 minutes to install the tool, and then I was able to turn his bolts with my fingers. HOW DOES A LIFT NEGATE THE WEIGHT OF THE CAR? THE LIFT MAKES THE CAR WEIGHTLESS? WHAT BOLTS WERE LEFT ONLY FINGER TIGHT WITH THE SPRING TENSION REMOVED? QUALITY CONTROL BY TOYOTA? RACE ON!!! PS. THE LIFT SHOULD MAKE IT EASIER TO USE THE WEIGHT OF THE CAR. YOU CAN LOWER THE LIFT AND WHOLE CAR TO SUPPORT THE WEIGHT WITH A JACK STAND ON THE SUSPENSION.
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Post by Richard on Mar 2, 2010 7:52:29 GMT -7
Let's see if any one else is reading this thread. We'll let them answer these questions if they can.
A. Why is jacking a car and the use of jackstands on a lift less desireable than on the ground?
B. Why is using the lift to lower a car onto a jackstand not a good idea?
C. Why are the ride height adjustment bolts on the ends of the front spring unsecured, and so easy to turn when the spring is compressed with a tool, and yet so hard to turn when the spring is not compressed?
I'll answer the questions if nobody else can.
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Post by Richard on Mar 2, 2010 13:38:43 GMT -7
Continuing with the project, we managed to build a cradle to hold the engine, and then slide it out from underneath the car:
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Post by warship on Mar 2, 2010 14:40:18 GMT -7
that tool looks just like the one in the fsm but better. nice job. SAFETY FIRST!
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Post by tom400cfi on Mar 2, 2010 16:50:55 GMT -7
Let's see if any one else is reading this thread. We'll let them answer these questions if they can. A. Why is jacking a car and the use of jackstands on a lift less desireable than on the ground? B. Why is using the lift to lower a car onto a jackstand not a good idea? C. Why are the ride height adjustment bolts on the ends of the front spring unsecured, and so easy to turn when the spring is compressed with a tool, and yet so hard to turn when the spring is not compressed? I'll answer the questions if nobody else can. I can't answer them b/c I don't understand them relative to what Jim was pointing out. I think Jim was pointing out that you can remove the shocks, raise the car and w/the suspension at fulll droop, remove the unloaded spring. Install, reverse procedure. That's how I've done it in the past. No safety issue that I can see. That tool is a neat one though. And the project pics are cool, too. Thanks for sharing!
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Post by highpockets on Mar 2, 2010 16:53:08 GMT -7
I have a cradle to hold the engine up in place while installing the lower front alum cradle assy.It will allow you to lift/lower the car as needed while providing support from above(DIRECTLY OVER FRAMERAILS)It does not interfere with removal of the front cradle at all and does not require removal of the hood either. Oh,and I dont remove the leaf springs except to replace or install coilovers,no need to . Unless you are doing lower CA bushings,but even then,no need to remove the spring I must be missing the big picture,are you changing the spring for a reason ?
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Post by Crossfire84 on Mar 2, 2010 17:16:13 GMT -7
Let's see if any one else is reading this thread. We'll let them answer these questions if they can. A. Why is jacking a car and the use of jackstands on a lift less desireable than on the ground? B. Why is using the lift to lower a car onto a jackstand not a good idea? C. Why are the ride height adjustment bolts on the ends of the front spring unsecured, and so easy to turn when the spring is compressed with a tool, and yet so hard to turn when the spring is not compressed? I'll answer the questions if nobody else can. I CAN'T ANSWER THEM, THOSE ARE MY QUESTIONS AS WELL. A. SEARCH ME! YOUR PREVIOUS POST SEEMS TO INDICATE A DIFFERENCE I DON'T VISUALIZE. B. SEE "A." NO IDEA. C. FRICTION IN THE THREADS OF THE NUT ON THE BOLT WHEN THERE IS SPRING TENSION ON THE THREADS. RACE ON!!! PS. NOT ONLY COULD YOU REMOVE THE UNLOADED SPRING, YOU CAN EASILY REMOVE THE UNLOADED BALL JOINTS AND KNUCKLE, IF YOU WISH.
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Post by Richard on Mar 2, 2010 19:34:20 GMT -7
I must be missing the big picture,are you changing the spring for a reason ? Look at the second picture in the initial post. The reason the engine and suspension have to come out of the car is so that the frame rail from the middle of the driver's door all the way to the front cross member is being replaced as per GM's recommended collision repair procedure. I considered simply sectioning out the mangled portion of the frame, but that would not be an approved way to make the repair. Since the car is being built to use for racing, I'm willing to put forth the extra effort to make a stronger repair. Whether or not I actually need to go to this extra effort is something I don't know.
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Post by Rudolph Schenker on Mar 3, 2010 8:05:37 GMT -7
Keep the pics coming , very interesting.
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Post by Richard on Mar 3, 2010 8:13:47 GMT -7
BTW, Vince, your cradle sounds interesting. I'd like to see it. But, since I didn't know about it, I was following the procedure in the factory service manual for removing the engine, and it does have you remove the spring.
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